This step is critical, and may set the stage for whether or not your application actually binds to the soil. Apply at least 1 in. of water so that the soil beneath the turf is very wet. Ideally, the soil 3 to 4 in. below the surface will be moist.
pull back a corner of the turf and push a screwdriver or other sharp tool into the soil. It should push in easily and have moisture along the first 3 or 4 in. or you need to apply more water.
Be certain water is getting to all areas of your new lawn, regardless of the type of sprinkling system you use. Corners and edges are easily missed by many sprinklers and are particularly vulnerable to drying out faster than the center portion of your new lawn.
Ensure adequate soaking, but watch for runoff. If runoff occurs due to sloped or low areas, conserve water, wait 30-60 minutes and re-start where you left off. Repeat as needed. Ie: Gradually add the water in smaller increments, but keep watering until Tip #1 is achieved.
Just like when it is installed, keep the soil below the sod moist daily, (at least) or the sod will not bind to the soil. Especially hot, dry or windy periods will necessitate increased watering amounts and frequency.
After about two weeks have passed, check the moisture depth. As the turf starts to knit it's new roots into the soil, it will be difficult, impossible and/or harmful to pull back a corner to check beneath the turf (see watering Tip #1). You can still use a sharp tool to check moisture depth by pushing it through the turf into the soil.
Water as early in the morning as possible to take advantage of the daily start of the grass's normal growing cycle, usually lower wind speeds and considerably less loss of water because of high temperature evaporation.
if the temperature approached 100° F (37° C), or if high winds are constant for more than half of the day, reduce the temperature of the turf surface by lightly sprinkling the area. This sprinkling does not replace the need for longer, deeper watering, which will become even more critical to continue during adverse weather conditions.
Continue to be sure your sod gets a maximum of 1”/water per/wk. This typically comes from natural resources such as rain, but often needs to be applied manually. Especially in July/August in Minnesota. If your soil conditions were indicated to be more sand-based, it holds less moisture, so watering manually, may be necessary. Soil conditions may dictate that the amount be applied in two settings, approximately two or three days apart to evenly saturate the underlying soil.
Deep roots. Once your sod has grown roots, and bound with the soil. It is preferred to continue evenly saturated watering to a depth of 4-6 inches. Deeply rooted grass has a larger "soil-water bank" to draw moisture from and this will help the grass survive drought and hot weather that rapidly dries out the upper soil layer.
Initial mowing should take place 2/3 weeks after installation. Follow these tips to create the most successful first mow & limit damage to your fresh lawn/sod. Properly mowed grass is less hassle, less prone to disease & retains more moisture to successfully compete with weeds & insects.
· Turn off your irrigation system
· Mow at an angle – this should be across the seams of the freshly laid sod
· Mow at the highest setting & only 1/3 of the blade at a time, on your mower
· Water after your initial mow –maintain a 2 ¾” – 3” height, keeping the blade at 1/3 height
Note: Root damage can occur when the crown is exposed, causing severe damage, which can take several weeks to recover.
Initial watering is crucial! Typically, if this can be done within 30” of installation, that is best. It may set the stage for whether your application binds to the soil. Proper watering means the soil 3-4” below will be muddy. This must be the condition of your soil for up to 2 weeks for the sod to knit into the soil.
Lengthen the time between watering, but keep an eye out for edges, small areas and strips along driveways that may be in danger of dry out. At this point, it should be difficult/impossible/harmful to ‘pull-back’ any of the corners to check beneath the turf for water levels.
Water as early in the mornings as possible. Be sure sod gets minimum of 1”water/week. Soil that is sandy it will hold less moisture. Deeply rooted grass has a larger ‘soil-water bank’ to draw moisture from & will help it survive in drought & hot weather.
Fertilizing is necessary to give your yard the nutrients it needs to thrive in the harsh Minnesota weather. For more information on fertilizing and weed control and to take the next step in growing the lawn your neighbors will envy click here!
First and foremost, all trees suffer a certain amount of “transplant shock”. Keep in mind that trees & shrubs are living organisms and living organisms need care in order to reach their full potential. Taking care of your tree in its first few years will affect its health, shape, and strength for its entire life span.
Newly planted trees need 10 gallons of water per caliper (diameter) inch Per Week. Consistent moisture is essential and will allow for better root water absorption. Drought stress or over-watered trees are vulnerable to disease and insect infestations as well as branch die back.
should be limited to removing broken, crossing branches, or in establishing a main leader.
should be applied in November (think Thanksgiving) and removed in April (think Easter). Tree wrap helps to prevent sunscald in young or thin barked trees. Damage from sun scald provides opportunity for insect damage or fungal diseases.
Premature leaf change, leaf wilt, leaf drop, leaf burn and tip dieback are signs of watering problems.
When watering non-established trees, check the soil frequently, and water according to need.
Do not permit the soil around existing trees to become dry.
Do not pile dirt or other materials beneath the crown of trees.
Keep fires or other sources of heat well clear of trees.
Trees must be thoroughly watered during the ensuing growing year.
Prune all existing trees surrounded by paving to prevent dehydration.